D&D Terminator II Protein Skimmer
Self Leveling Control how you want to foam, you decide to skim wet or dry. Core is completely removable for cleaning Hybrid Ventrui Can Be set up to run similar to a canister filter
Presales Questions & Trouble Shoting Questions
We
have tried to list anything that has been called into our customer
service desk even if the question as only been asked once.
Can I run the Terminator II Inside or outside of the sump?
Answer: Yes, The skimmer can either sit in the sump, or it can sit outside of the sump beside it.
Do I have to have a sump to install the Terminator II ?
Answer: No, using an accessory kit called "The Sum-less Kit" the skimmer can be gravity feed from the tank (See Sump-less Kit page)
What pumps will I need to install the Terminator II?
Answer:
The skimmer comes with the main pump, this is the pump that mounts on
the side of the skimmer and runs the regenerating loop venturi. You
will still need a small powerhead to bring water up from the sump an
into the skimmer. The pump does not have to produce pressure, it only
needs to be able to lift the water to the inlet of the skimmer and
provide 250 to 300 gallons per hour. If however you are going to use
the Sump-less kit you will not not need this little powerhead but will
need a Pentair QuietOne 1200. This pump acts to return water from the
skimmer to the tank and at this time is the only pump we certify to
work for this function.
What should I expect to see when the skimmer is running?
Answer:
The body of the skimmer should be opaque with air bubbles. Keep in mind
that at the point where the water and air mixture enters the body the
bubbles immediately begin to rise. This means that there will be an
area as the water comes back around to the injection point where there
will not be very many bubbles, this is normal. Midway up the body and
in the concentrator top however the body should be filled with air
bubbles. The concentrator top should have a layer of stabile foam
laying on the surface of the water, and then layers of foam being
lifted, dried, and ejected. Keep in mind that in some tanks a skimmer
may take two or even three days to season itself and kick in, again
this is normal. ( click here to see a video clip of the foam action in the concentrator top of the skimmer)
How do I clean the skimmer?
Answer:
The only part of the skimmer that should require regular cleaning is
the concentrator top. This can be removed and simply rinsed with warm
water. You may occasionally wish to disassemble the main body for
cleaning and this can be done by removing the entire core of the
skimmer (see instruction manual). You should also periodically clean
the venturi to keep it operating at top efficiency. (follow venturi cleaning instructions carefully or you may damage your venturi).
Is everything in the box that I need?
Answer:
All but the waste hose, there are so many different installations
requiring different lengths of tubing that we are unable to guess how
to provide this. You will need a length of 1/2" x 5/8 vinyl hose in the
length to reach your skimmer down to where ever you plan to put your
waste jug (a 1 gallon milk jug works nicely).
You will also need pumps as specified in question 3.
Depending
upon installations the hose you require will vary. You may wish to
download the instruction manual for the skimmer and if you are going to
install the Sump-less kit the manual for it as well. This will help you
determine what hose you may require. All hose used is 1/2" x 5/8" vinyl
hose.
Is the skimmer available in voltages for other countries?
Answer:
Yes, at present we manufacture units with 120 volt U.S. style plugs,
230 volt with European plugs, and 230 volt U.K. plugs
I have noticed that I do not get as many bubbles in the skimmer as I once did, what could be wrong?
Answer:
The most common cause is a dirty or damaged venturi. To clean the
venturi remove it and soak it in regular house hold vinegar for about
an hour. You can use a Q Tip or something soft in the ends to remove
dirt. DO NOT USE A BRUSH OR ANYTHING THAT COULD SCRATCH THE INSIDE AS
THIS CAN DESTROY THE VENTURI.
After soaking rinse well and install on the skimmer.
I noticed that the side chamber on the skimmer is open at the top.
There is however a lock ring and an "O" ring seal there, should there
be a piece to close this off, am I missing a part?
Answer:
No, the side chamber is designed to be open at the top. The lock ring
and "O" ring seal are there for use only if you install the sump-less
kit.
In the instructions it uses
the decal on the concentrator top as a reference point to set the level
control tube. My tube will not adjust to the bottom of the label.
Answer:
We have been made aware that some of the labels on the units were
applied a little low causing this problem. The goal in the instructions
was to simply set the level tube as low as possible for start up and to
let you get used to the skimmer and how it should function. You can
then begin to adjust the unit to run the water level a little higher.
As you do this notice the change in the waste foam coming out of the
skimmer. You will find as you raise the level you will get more ejected
waste, but it will be wetter foam. You have direct control over how wet
the waste will be by adjusting this level.
I am getting a leak at one of the threaded connections?
This
is rare, but can happen. (If this leak is at the Pump outlet, see
below) If it is one of the joints that you assembled, or a preassembled
joint, the fix is easy. Simply unthread the joint and reteflon the
thread with the thread sealing teflon tape we provide with each unit.
We STRONGLY suggest you view the video clip "how to apply teflon tape" many people may feel that they are familiar with the process but may get it wrong. Please view the video clip.
I am getting a leak at the pump outlet, what should I do?
We
have had a few questions on this. It is related to how the teflon is
applied to the threads when you assemble your unit. If you look into
the end of the pump you will notice the threads are deep into the
socket. In a few cases we have had people wrap excess teflon tape on
the upper part of the thread. This causes the teflon to bind in the
part of the socket that does not have threads. In all cases to date the
solution has been to simply remove the teflon tape and reapply the
teflon paying special attention to keeping it only on the first part of
the thread, say the first 1/2" of the thread. Apply two or three wraps
and then thread the fitting in and check to see if it snuggs up. If not
add a little more teflon again keeping it at the end of the threads
only. (view video clip) |